Diamond quality: the properties of the most precious of stones

5/1/2022

Whether it's to enhance your wedding or engagement ring, diamonds are the essential stone that goes perfectly with any setting, whatever the metal you choose. Yellow, white or pink gold, platinum or palladium, with a diamond on your finger, you're sure to avoid a fashion mistake. But do you know where diamonds come from, how they're classified and what criteria are important in determining their true value? We'll explain it all to you.

Diamonds : A jewel of nature

More than 3 billion years ago, between a depth of 150 and 200 kilometers beneath the Earth's crust, where temperatures are extreme (up to 1,500°C) and pressure is at its maximum (up to 75 tons/cm2), pure carbon crystallized and became diamonds. In order for diamonds to reach the earth's surface, a volcanic eruption is necessary.The molten magma takes the diamonds with it and transforms them into rocks containing diamonds: the best-known being kimberlite. 


The "4 Cs": the international classification for all white diamonds

"Carat", "Colour", "Clarity" and "Cut" - in other words, carat (i.e. weight), color, purity and cut - make up the famous "4 Cs" that together allow us to judge a diamond's quality. Let's take a closer look at each of these 4 elements.


Carat, or the weight of a diamond

1 carat = 0.20 gram. The origin of the word "carat" originates from ancient times, where traders utilized carob seeds (weighing 0.24g) as a measurement unit. Over time, the carat became the standardized unit of measurement for diamonds and precious stones. A carat signifies the weight of the diamond, which is not to be confused with the carat of gold, which refers to the purity of the metal. 


The color or the diamond in 23 shades of white

There exist a multitude of "whites". For diamonds, the scale goes from D (for the whitest diamonds) to Z (for those with a slightly yellowed hue). For simplicity's sake, we've grouped them into 6 main categories:

- The "Colorless" or "Exceptional White" category, i.e. the most colorless (D, E, F+),

- The "Near Colorless" or "Extra White" category (F, G),

- The "Faint Color" or "White" category, (H),

- The "Very Light Color" or "Shaded White" category (I, J),

- The "Light Color" category. (K, L),

- The "Light cape" or "Tinted, very pale yellow" category. (M to Z),


Purity or the hunt for inclusions

The formation of a diamond results in the appearance of inclusions. The less visible these inclusions are, the higher the price of a diamond.

Diamonds are classified into 8 main categories to define their purity.  

- The FL category(Flawless-Pure)
has no internal or external defects perceptible with a x10 magnifying glass. This is the rarest and most expensive purity grade.

- The IF category (Internally Flawless)
has no internal flaws perceptible under x10 magnification. This grade is exceptionally rare 

- The VVS1 category(Very, Very Small Inclusions 1)
features tiny inclusions that are very difficult to see under a x10 magnifying glass . These are extremely rare diamonds.

- The VVS2 category(Very, Very Small Inclusions 2)
features tiny inclusions barely perceptible under a x10 magnifying glass. Also extremely rare.

- The VS1 category(Very Small Inclusions 1)
features very small inclusions that are not always clearly visible under a x10 magnifying glass, but are totally invisible to the naked eye.

- The VS2 (Very Small Inclusions 2) class
features very small inclusions not clearly visible at x10 magnification, but totally invisible to the naked eye.

- The SI1 category(Small Inclusions 1)
features very small inclusions visible with a x10 magnifying glass but totally invisible to the naked eye.

- The SI2 category (Small Inclusions 2)
features very small inclusions visible with a x10 magnifying glass and very rarely visible to the naked eye.

Pruning, or how to optimize light reflection

To achieve maximum brillance, it is important to cut the stone very carefully. There are 5 categories of cut, ranging from "excellent" for diamonds that reflect all the light to "mediocre" for stones that appear dull.

- E (Cut Grade Excellent - Excellent)

- VG (Cut Grade Very Good)

- G (Cut Grade Good)

- F (Cut Grade Fair - Medium)

- P (Cut Grade Poor)

It's your chance to chose the perfect combination of the  4C's  for your engagement ring or wedding band! But don't worry, not everyone is a gemologist! So frankly, who will be able to recognize the quality of your Diamond?

And finally, the greatest quality of a diamond is that it's eternal... just like your love!

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Contributor

5/1/2022

Hanna Mechaly

Hannah Mechaly, the founder of the Wedding Ring Event and director of Nos Alliances boutiques, has dedicated herself on revolutionizing the wedding jewelry industry for over 30 years.
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